20 August 2009
The recent hullabaloo over Julie Powers’ book about cooking her way through Volume One of Mastering the Art of French Cooking has had me chuckling. I’ve had those books for years and the only thing I got up the nerve to make was French onion soup. It was deelish, naturally, but the rest of those books intimidated me. While I’ve been reading Julia and Julie, however, I blew the dust off Volume I. so I could follow along with what Julie was making. I marveled at her moxie, as well as her haphazard way of attempting some of the recipes.
What I learned, though, was that Julia Child’s masterpiece no longer scared me. Indeed, finding bone marrow is simple. You just have to ask the butcher for soup shanks, and if they aren’t cut up, great. If they are, that’s less work. The marrow doesn’t have to be in one clump to work well. Sometimes it pays to ask your butcher to put them aside for you, too. After all, shanks make the best beef vegetable soup on the planet. Making a sauce for some steaks shouldn’t have been a chapter’s worth of angst.
We’re knee deep in books at the annual AAUW-Roanoke Valley book sale. The books don’t go on sale until September 11th, but I already have the cookbooks organized. I’ve already brought home a boxload of them, on approval. I read them before bed, of course. Last year we had a LOT of cookbooks. This year, not so many. However that didn’t stop me from finding some treasures. Unfortunately, I still don’t have most of last year’s goodies shelved because I am out of cookbook space.
The thing about cookbooks is that all it takes is one really stellar recipe to make the whole book worthwhile. I have given up books like the Vegetarian Epicure, both volumes, because they were written in the days when vegetarians subsisted primarily on mushrooms. I like them, but they don’t pass Big Kitty’s lips. So I saved the vinaigrette recipe and gave the books away. The vinaigrette recipe never fails to get raves.
I was the lucky recipient of some goodies from Anna’s collection before she decamped for Roma. I’ve also collected some of those fundraiser cookbooks that proliferate used book store shelves. I’ve often wondered if I had any sense in keeping some of those, but when I needed a tried and true recipe for stuffed green peppers, that’s where I found reliable material. One fundraiser cookbook has a motherlode of Anna’s personal recipes - ones I’ve eaten and loved - so you can bet it’s one that gets used. Her simple chickpea soup is to die for!
I know people who own maybe two or so cookbooks. They don’t seem to need to follow recipes, I guess. I do, but in all these years, I have kind of graduated to shopping for flavors in my herb garden and then applying basic technique to making some pretty tasty food. Still, recipes are important. They are where I go for ideas. When people marvel over the kinds of things I make, I forget they don’t think about food the way I do. Just follow a recipe to the letter.
My collection could be catalogued by a librarian with time on her hands. Italian, herb, Louisiana, tea, baking, vegetarian, French, Mexican and the collections. The collections are books like The New York Times Cookbook, the McCall’s Cookbook, The Joy of Cooking, The Gourmet Cookbook, and the like. Then there are the ethnic books covering everything from Scandinavian to Indian, and all points in between. As it stands, I have 18 feet of these things, and could use another two feet for the overflow and another two feet for those yet to come.
Why? Because I love to try new things and we both love to eat. Big Kitty has made the transition from “I don’t care what it is as long as it doesn’t have mushrooms and there is a lot of it” to “This is good but it needs something. What would happen if you added…” He eats whatever I put in front of him, which is far cry from the culinary experiences of my poor, sainted, late mother.
Growing up, I experienced great cooking from my grandmas and my aunts. My mother muddled through, making bland, boring food that only Dad liked. When Grandma Kate would call saying, “I got hungry for gnokes. Come pick me,” I got excited. Gnokes was Grandma-speak for gnocchi. The other valued treat were her “arkichokes” - breadcrumb and garlic stuffed artichokes. Mom and I would blast off for Grandma’s and return with her and a huge roasting pan jammed with artichokes. The aroma was heavenly to us and poison to Dad who would shriek and complain about the stink of the garlic.
When Grandma was relegated to a nursing home after having suffered a stroke, I brought her to our house and had her make artichokes. Before she tossed in a pinch of this or a dab of that, I would have her dump the ingredient into a bowl, measure out what she had in there and dutifully write it down. She showed me how to mash the artichoke upside down and then run cold water through it. After that, she trimmed the spikes with a paring knife against her thumb. I use kitchen shears, which I find easier. I also use a helluva lot more garlic than she did.
I still don’t have a cookbook with a recipe that comes close to hers, although they were described to a tee in Gumbo Tales. And that brings me to my main criticism of Julie Powell’s cooking style. I know she had to have had a ball making those recipes and blogging about them. But the fact is, I don’t see a whole lot of organization or common sense in her approach. The more I read about food and the more I cook my way through various books, the more I have come to realize you have to read the recipe in advance. You have to picture it in your mind. If you lack a tool, you have to think about what you have that would work, or how to compensate.
Case in point: bone marrow. Most of grocery stores sell beef shanks for soup. If there is a butcher available - and I mean the kind that gets in sides of beef or whole pigs and cuts up the critter into recognizable hunks - you just TELL him what you want, and he’ll make it up for you. If he can’t, all you have to do is ask for a reasonable substitute. The butcher will tell you what else would work. It means you have to plan ahead.
My kitchen is jammed with gadgets. Wayne goes crazy over all my gadgets, but they sure do make my life easier. Wanna add bing cherries to a fruit salad? Pits? No biggie. Put on a really heavy apron and use the little pitter. Plan on having stained fingers until after you wash a lot of pots and pans in hot water.
Want jam filled crepes for dessert? No problemo. Got a nifty electric crepe maker that turns ‘em out slick as can be. Want scalloped potatoes? What size gratin do we need to use? Want an apple pancake like at Walker’s on Green Bay Road? Reach up there and hand me the pan. Need to run the French onion soup under the broiler? Divide it into these Le Creuset flameproof mini casseroles first.
The right tool makes life easier. I found out that my stubborn adherence to the good old American made Chicago Cutlery knives wasn’t making my life easier. I found it out by accident in the Sur la Table store in Chicago, where a Globe santoku knife forever changed my cooking. I don’t need the food processor nearly as much. To be sure, I don’t have a kitchen like Julia Child, with the outlines of my batterie de cuisine arranged around the room like the feet taped to the floor for ballroom dancing. Mine is small but very functional.
And everything I do, I owe to having read a lot of cookbooks, cooking magazines, and watching my sister, who took lessons and is utterly fearless in the kitchen. (She wasn’t taking any chances on eating like Dad for the rest of her life!) So, yeah. I do need another two to four feet of cookbook space and all I get from Big Kitty is a grin. He was such a skinny kid when we got married….
And he didn’t think much of the veal chops I made last night following Julia’s recipe. Might need to check for a better one in Giada or Craig Claiborne.